A taquito is a common Mexican dish that’s essentially a tortilla rolled with a type of filling and fried. Courtesy of chef Brady Williams of Seattle’s historic Canlis restaurant and recipe website GoWhisk, we’ve got our hands on the chef’s elevated version – Buckwheat Taquito with Chiquito Bean Purée and Green Garlic Powder.
“A few months back, we were introduced to the folks at the Bread Lab, headed by Dr. Steve Jones. In short, the goal of the Bread Lab is to change the way we, as a country, consume grains. We started working with some buckwheat that they developed and farmed locally.
Our only goal was to explore its possibilities, and to do something we hadn’t done before. One of our cooks, Niels, had the idea of treating it like masa, making a nixtamalized dough with it and forming a tortilla.
We also had recently received some rojo chiquita beans from the Bread Lab – the first of its kind developed for our region – and made a simple purée with it, honoring the flavor and intricacies of the bean. The taquito shape was the perfect vessel for the bean. To round it out, we made a powder of green garlic and matcha.
It is currently the first bite every guest receives at our restaurant, as we hope it tells a story of who we are, at this place and time.” –Brady Williams
Green Garlic Powder
4 green garlic bulbs (100 g), roots trimmed and green parts wiped with a towel to remove dirt
Preheat oven to lowest setting, 150ºF to 175ºF (66ºC to 79ºC).
Halve garlic lengthwise and cut crosswise into ½-inch pieces.
Line a small pan or sheet tray with a single layer of green garlic and dehydrate in oven until completely dry, 12 to 15 hours. (If oven gets too hot, turn off and continue to leave pan inside to dehydrate.)
In a mortar and pestle or spice grinder, pulverize dried green garlic and pass through a fine mesh sieve.
Makes 2 generous tablespoons green garlic powder.
Rojo Chiquito Bean Purée
1½ cups (100 g) rojo chiquito beans (substitute with red kidney beans)
½ carrot, peeled and halved lengthwise
¼ onion, root and skin attached
½ stalk celery, halved lengthwise
1 small bay leaf
6 cups water, plus more for soaking and rinsing beans
2½ tsp (10 g) kosher salt
1½ tsp (3.5 g) whole black pepper
1 tbsp (5 g) whole coriander seeds
1 star anise
1 tsp vegetable oil
3 green garlic bulbs (75 g), roots trimmed and green parts wiped with a towel to remove dirt
1 tbsp (14 g) smoked butter
Soak beans in water overnight in refrigerator.
Drain water and add beans to a medium saucepan, along with the carrot, onion, celery, and bay leaf.
Cover with 6 cups fresh water and stir in salt.
Wrap the black pepper, coriander and star anise in cheesecloth to make a sachet and add to beans.
Bring to a boil, then reduce heat and simmer until beans are soft – 1 hour and 15 minutes.
Discard vegetables, bay leaf and sachet and strain beans, reserving ¾ cup cooking liquid.
In a large skillet, heat oil over medium-high heat.
Add green garlic and sear until charred, 5 to 7 minutes.
Combine the cooked beans, charred green garlic and smoked butter in a blender and mix until smooth, adding ½ cup to ¾ cup reserved bean liquid.
Strain bean purée through a chinois or fine-mesh sieve and spoon into a pastry bag. Set aside or store in the fridge for up to 1 day.
(If using the following day, warm bean purée with a couple tablespoons water in a small saucepan over low heat before filling fried taquitos.)
1½ cups (255 g) buckwheat groats
5 cups water, plus more for soaking and rinsing
1½ tbsp (12 g) kosher salt
2 tbsp (12 g ) pickling lime
5 cups vegetable oil, for frying
¾ cup crème fraîche, to serve
Soak buckwheat groats in water for 10 minutes.
Strain, discarding the water, and repeat the soaking process two or more times.
In a medium saucepan, stir together 5 cups water with the salt and pikcling lime, and bring to a boil.
Add groats and cook at a boil for 6 minutes.
Remove from heat and let sit for 10 minutes, then strain and discard the water.
Rinse groats very well under running water and spread on a towel-lined sheet tray to dry out a little. They will still be quite moist.
(Nixtamalized Buckwheat Chip)
Assemble a meat grinder with a 3-millimeter die.
Run the moist buckwheat groats through the meat grinder one time. You should have approximately 1 pound of buckwheat masa dough.
If it is too wet (very likely), add a little buckwheat flour and knead for 5 minutes until dough is tacky and doesn’t stick to your hands.
In a large saucepan or Dutch oven, fill enough oil to a depth of 1½ inches and heat to 350ºF (177ºC).
Pinch off 1 tablespoon-sized dough pieces and roll into small balls, yielding a total of about 25 balls.
Working one at a time, place a dough ball in between two pieces of plastic wrap and press flat in a tortilla press.
Roll the flat tortilla around the wooden dowel (or wooden spoon handle) to form a tube shape.
gently release the dough tube from the dowel and fry in the hot oil until crisp and golden brown, 4 to 4½ minutes.
Repeat with the remaining dough balls. (Scrape any excess dough from the dowel after each roll to prevent sticking)
Pipe bean filling into fried shells and sift green garlic powder over top. Serve with crème fraîche.