Tomato Mozza and Again

Seyine Park /

Chef Paul Pairet’s restaurant Ultraviolet offers an experience that is almost impossible to illustrate. Serving a set menu to only 10 patrons at a time around a single table, the restaurant is designed to enhance any specific dish on the menu through its atmosphere – tailored through the technology of sound, scent, light, and 360° projections. Here we have chef Paul’s recipe for “Tomato Mozza and Again” – composed of two identical looking dishes made up of entirely different flavors.

Located in Shanghai, Ultraviolet was a new entry to the World’s 50 Best Restaurant, already placing at No.24. Once guests arrive at Pairet’s Mr. and Mrs. Bund, they are driven by a minibus to a secret location where their adventure awaits. Pairet and his team then cater to the exclusive group of ten to “influence, entertain, challenge, interact, celebrate, boost, immerse, [and] simply support the perception of taste through a tailored atmosphere.”

Chef Paul’s “Tomato Mozza and Again” dish plays on the concept of visual deception and “the treachery of appearance.” Through the juxtaposition of two seemingly identical dishes, chef Paul challenges whomever the patron may be to distinguish the dishes and its components through taste, alone.

And now for the recipe:

The Savory Plate

Tomato Infusion

Ingredients
1000g cherry tomato
35g garlic
100g sherry vinegar
15g salt
15g Pernod Ricard
15g basil leaves
Instructions
Juice cherry tomatoes.
Add crushed garlic, bruised basil, and remaining ingredients.
Infuse overnight.
Sieve through fine mesh chinois.

Tomato Base

Ingredients
500g tomato infusion
50g balsamic reduction
25g beetroot reduction
Instructions
Combine, hand blend, and sieve.

Tomato Coulis/Granite

Ingredients
500g tomato base
50g olive oil
10g balsamic reduction
5g beetroot reduction
2.5g xantana texturas
Instructions
Hand blend liquid in a narrow container.
Adjust color with beetroot and balsamic reduction if necessary in order to match the color of the red fruit coulis.
Add xanthana and hand blend at low speed, until mix reaches coulis thickness.
Sieve through fine mesh chinois, and divide the mix into two parts.
Part 1: Transfer to Pacojet and freeze for granite.
Part 2: Store in a small tip squeeze bottle and refrigerate.

Tomato Gel

Ingredients
200g tomato base
1g agar
1pc gel
Instructions
Combine tomato base with agar. Boil, sieve, and add gel.
Pour flat into 12×12 cm square molds. Set in fridge.
Cut portions into 1.5 cm squares, 1 cm thick.

Mozzarella Base

Ingredients
200g mozzarella
200g mozzarella water
100g cream
10g olive oil
4pc gelatine
Instructions
Combine all ingredients except cream and gelatine.
Vita-prep full speed until warm.
Add gelatine.
Fold in the cream with spatula.
Sieve through chinois.

Savory Mozzarella

Ingredients
150g mozzarella base, warm
25g goat cheese
20g olive oil
Instructions
Combine all ingredients and hand blend.
Store in fridge.

Cheese Wafer

Ingredients
Gruyère
250g light soy sauce
250g water
Instructions
Slice Gruyère 1mm thick with cheese slicer.
Combine light soy sauce and water, marinade with Gruyère slices overnight.
Melt slowly in a non-stick pan, on low heat.
Remove Gruyère when crispy.
Portion when warm into 4×4 cm squares.

Lemon Salt

Ingredients
30g Maldon salt
2g lemon zest
Instructions
Mix all ingredients.

Savory Tomato Pulp

Ingredients
1 unit red tomato pulp
1 pinch lemon salt
3 drops olive oil
2 drops tomato reduction
Instructions
Mix all ingredients.

 

The Sweet Plate

Raspberry Water

Ingredients
1.5kg raspberries
1.5kg water
50g sugar
Instructions
Mix all ingredients in air-tight container.
Steam at 100°C for 2 hours.
Strain through chinois and coffee filter.

Strawberry Water

Ingredients
1000g strawberry
100g sugar
Instructions
Combine all ingredients in air-tight container.
Steam at 100ºC for 60 minutes.
Decant in refrigerator for 12 hours.
Strain through chinois and coffee filter.

Red Fruit Mix

Ingredients
250g raspberry water
125g strawberry water
Instructions
Combine.

Red Fruit Coulis/Granite

Ingredients
500g red fruit mix
7g balsamic reduction
15g beetroot reduction
30g vanilla oil
2g xantana texturas
Instructions
Hand blend liquid in a narrow container.
Adjust color with beetroot and balsamic reduction if necessary in order to match the color of the red fruit coulis.
Add xanthana, and hand blend at low speed, until mix reaches coulis thickness.
Sieve through fine mesh chinois, and divide the mix into two parts:
Part 1: Transfer to Pacojet and freeze for granite.
Part 2: Store in a small tip squeeze bottle and refrigerate.

Red Fruit Gel

Ingredients
200g red fruit mix
1g agar
1pc gelatine
Instructions
Combine base with agar.
Boil, sieve, and add gelatine.
Pour flat into 12×12 cm square molds, and set in fridge.
Cut portions into 1.5 cm squares, 1 cm thick.

Mozzarella Base

Ingredients
200g mozzarella
200g mozzarella water
100g cream
10g olive oil
4pc gelatine
Instructions
Combine all ingredients except cream and gelatine.
Vita-prep full speed until warm.
Add gelatine.
Fold in the cream with spatula.
Sieve through chinois.

Sweet Mozzarella

Ingredients
250g mozzarella base, warm
25g sugar
25g crème fraiche
Instructions
Combine all ingredients and hand blend.
Store in fridge.

Caramel Wafer

Ingredients
250g sable crumb
300g simple syrup
10g orange reduction
Instructions
Mix all ingredients. Purée using Robot Coupe.
Bake at 180ºC for 8 minutes, at low fan speed.
Cool to room temperature.
Portion on warm surface.
Store in air-tight container with silicon.

Lemon Sugar

Ingredients
30g sugar
2g lemon zest
Instructions
Mix all ingredients.

Sweet Tomato Pulp

Ingredients
1 unit red tomato pulp
1 pinch lemon sugar
3 drops vanilla oil
2 drops strawberry reduction
Instructions
Mix all ingredients.

Plating:

Prepare two plates that look identical in design, but will be different in taste. One version will be savory, and one version will be sweet. Follow the list and photo below for reference.

The Savory Plate

Savory tomato pulp
Tomato coulis
Olive oil
Balsamic reduction
Brined black olive
Savory mozzarella
2 Basil leaves
2 Arugula
2 Tarragon
1 Oregano
Tomato gel
Cheese wafer
Tomato granite

The Sweet Plate

Sweet tomato pulp
Red fruit coulis
Vanilla oil
Balsamic reduction
Candied black olive
Sweet mozzarella
2 Basil leaves
2 Arugula
2 Tarragon
1 Mint
Red fruit gel
Caramel wafer
Raspberry granite

Ultraviolet

Tomato Mozza and Again by chef Paul Pairet. © Ultraviolet

Scott Wright/Limelight Studio

Tomato Mozza and Again by chef Paul Pairet. © Scott Wright/Limelight Studio